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Florida Portable Power Generators
If you live in Florida, a portable power generator is an absolute necessity. Anyone who
has experienced the aftermath of a tropical storm or hurricane knows that once the
power goes down it takes days or even weeks before the utility crews get everyone
up and running again.
For as little as a few hundred dollars you can carry on with your life in familiar
surroundings, prevent the loss of hundreds of dollars worth of frozen and perishable
food, and let the bad actors out there know you’re home protecting your property.
Portable generators are available in Florida at a wide variety of locations including
Home Depot, Lowe’s, Northern Tool, Tractor Supply, and even Walgreen’s on occasion.
But the selection is limited and what they do offer disappears in a matter of hours
when an imminent threat is announced.
For this reason, along with other considerations, is why the purchase of a portable
generator is something you should try to plan ahead for, rather than wait until the last
minute.
What size generator should I buy?
Generator size depends on the type and wattage of the appliances you need/want to
run. More appliances require more power and a bigger and more expensive generator.
So start with the appliances you feel are essential, match their total wattage to a
generator, and see if the price of the generator fits your budget.
Unfortunately, most homeowners don’t have an extra $1,500 for a whole house
(except central A/C) 10,000 watt generator. So for illustration purposes we’ll use a
more affordable 4,000 watt generator costing around $400 which is enough to power
all your essential appliances. And by staggering the load, (alternating the use of
heavy load devices such as the fridge and sump pump) you’ll survive in relative
comfort.
But before we discuss appliances and generator power management you have to
decide on the fuel source for your generator.
Should you buy a gasoline, LP, or diesel powered generator?
Gas powered generators are the least expensive and most common type because
gasoline is readily available. However, when the power goes out, most gas stations
are unable to pump gas because they’re not equipped with stand-by generators.
Although the utilities make it a priority to reconnect businesses first, it could take a
few days before gas is once again available.
One way to ensure an uninterrupted supply of fuel is to have more than one 5 gallon
container of gas on hand. Just make sure they’re stored outside in a well ventilated
secure location.
Another option is to buy a siphon at your local auto parts store and refill your gas
container from your car’s gas tank. I called a service tech at Melbourne Toyota and she
said our ’08 Solara with an 18.5 gallon tank was siphonable. Finally, to conserve fuel
you could shut off the generator completely during low demand or at night.
Cost to run a gas powered generator
A 4,000 watt generator with a 4 gallon tank will run 10 hours at ½ load. One half load
in this case equals 2,000 watts; which is what you would need to keep all the plugged
in appliances humming along once they’ve started up. So 4 gallons @ $3.75 = $15 for
10 hours.
Liquid propane fueled generators
The cost per hour for fuel to run a propane generator is nearly identical to gasoline
but propane generators are about half again as expensive as gas powered units.
Obtaining fuel for a propane generator in Florida is relatively convenient owing to the
numerous locations where you can either swap tanks or have them refilled.
But once again fuel availability becomes an issue if the propane vendor’s power is also
down. One way around this is to have extra 20 lb tanks on hand (stored outside in a
secure location) or, you could purchase a 100 lb Flame King tank for around $160.
If propane is already the primary fuel source for your home, you could have your
generator hooked up directly to the tank. Natural gas, on the other hand, is better
suited to permanently installed stand-by generators.
Diesel generators
Diesel generators are durable and deliver more power with less fuel than gas and
propane generators but also cost 2 to 3 times more. Diesel is a must have on a job
site but the cost doesn’t justify the occasional use requirements of the average
homeowner.
Grounding the generator
Before you plug anything into the generator, make sure it is grounded. Locate the
generator at least 7' away from your house to prevent deadly C02 from entering your
home. Next, a few feet away from the generator, drive a 3/4" - 1" copper tube a
couple of feet into the ground making sure the tube is in contact with moist soil.
Using 10 gauge wire, attach one end to the grounding post on the generator, and the
other end to the copper tube with a bronze saddle clamp designed for grounding.
Choosing your essential appliances and connecting them to the generator
Every electric device consumes a designated number of watts while running (run
watts) and some require an additional, momentary surge of power to start up (surge
watts).
The running watts number can usually be found on a label affixed somewhere on each
appliance. Sometimes only the amps and volts are printed on the label. If that’s the
case, multiply amps x volts to determine the run watts, or consult the newly updated
Household Appliance Wattage Chart which estimates both the run watts and surge
watts for numerous appliances.
has experienced the aftermath of a tropical storm or hurricane knows that once the
power goes down it takes days or even weeks before the utility crews get everyone
up and running again.
For as little as a few hundred dollars you can carry on with your life in familiar
surroundings, prevent the loss of hundreds of dollars worth of frozen and perishable
food, and let the bad actors out there know you’re home protecting your property.
Portable generators are available in Florida at a wide variety of locations including
Home Depot, Lowe’s, Northern Tool, Tractor Supply, and even Walgreen’s on occasion.
But the selection is limited and what they do offer disappears in a matter of hours
when an imminent threat is announced.
For this reason, along with other considerations, is why the purchase of a portable
generator is something you should try to plan ahead for, rather than wait until the last
minute.
What size generator should I buy?
Generator size depends on the type and wattage of the appliances you need/want to
run. More appliances require more power and a bigger and more expensive generator.
So start with the appliances you feel are essential, match their total wattage to a
generator, and see if the price of the generator fits your budget.
Unfortunately, most homeowners don’t have an extra $1,500 for a whole house
(except central A/C) 10,000 watt generator. So for illustration purposes we’ll use a
more affordable 4,000 watt generator costing around $400 which is enough to power
all your essential appliances. And by staggering the load, (alternating the use of
heavy load devices such as the fridge and sump pump) you’ll survive in relative
comfort.
But before we discuss appliances and generator power management you have to
decide on the fuel source for your generator.
Should you buy a gasoline, LP, or diesel powered generator?
Gas powered generators are the least expensive and most common type because
gasoline is readily available. However, when the power goes out, most gas stations
are unable to pump gas because they’re not equipped with stand-by generators.
Although the utilities make it a priority to reconnect businesses first, it could take a
few days before gas is once again available.
One way to ensure an uninterrupted supply of fuel is to have more than one 5 gallon
container of gas on hand. Just make sure they’re stored outside in a well ventilated
secure location.
Another option is to buy a siphon at your local auto parts store and refill your gas
container from your car’s gas tank. I called a service tech at Melbourne Toyota and she
said our ’08 Solara with an 18.5 gallon tank was siphonable. Finally, to conserve fuel
you could shut off the generator completely during low demand or at night.
Cost to run a gas powered generator
A 4,000 watt generator with a 4 gallon tank will run 10 hours at ½ load. One half load
in this case equals 2,000 watts; which is what you would need to keep all the plugged
in appliances humming along once they’ve started up. So 4 gallons @ $3.75 = $15 for
10 hours.
Liquid propane fueled generators
The cost per hour for fuel to run a propane generator is nearly identical to gasoline
but propane generators are about half again as expensive as gas powered units.
Obtaining fuel for a propane generator in Florida is relatively convenient owing to the
numerous locations where you can either swap tanks or have them refilled.
But once again fuel availability becomes an issue if the propane vendor’s power is also
down. One way around this is to have extra 20 lb tanks on hand (stored outside in a
secure location) or, you could purchase a 100 lb Flame King tank for around $160.
If propane is already the primary fuel source for your home, you could have your
generator hooked up directly to the tank. Natural gas, on the other hand, is better
suited to permanently installed stand-by generators.
Diesel generators
Diesel generators are durable and deliver more power with less fuel than gas and
propane generators but also cost 2 to 3 times more. Diesel is a must have on a job
site but the cost doesn’t justify the occasional use requirements of the average
homeowner.
Grounding the generator
Before you plug anything into the generator, make sure it is grounded. Locate the
generator at least 7' away from your house to prevent deadly C02 from entering your
home. Next, a few feet away from the generator, drive a 3/4" - 1" copper tube a
couple of feet into the ground making sure the tube is in contact with moist soil.
Using 10 gauge wire, attach one end to the grounding post on the generator, and the
other end to the copper tube with a bronze saddle clamp designed for grounding.
Choosing your essential appliances and connecting them to the generator
Every electric device consumes a designated number of watts while running (run
watts) and some require an additional, momentary surge of power to start up (surge
watts).
The running watts number can usually be found on a label affixed somewhere on each
appliance. Sometimes only the amps and volts are printed on the label. If that’s the
case, multiply amps x volts to determine the run watts, or consult the newly updated
Household Appliance Wattage Chart which estimates both the run watts and surge
watts for numerous appliances.
Choose the right extension cords
You’ll need 3 or 4 extension cords to connect selected appliances to the generator.
The cords should be a minimum 16 gauge and no longer than necessary to run from
the generator to where ever they'll be needed. If an extension cord is too long the
resulting power drop may damage the generator and appliances. And, as a practical
matter, longer cords are more expensive.
Connecting your appliances to the generator
To prolong the life of your portable generator and attached devices, follow these steps
to add electrical load:
Outlet #1
In the first outlet we’ll plug in one of the extension cords and run it to the
refrigerator/freezer. Whenever a refrigerator's compressor starts up it draws around
12 amps equalling 1,400 watts so it’s the only appliance we’ll run off this outlet.
A few seconds after start up, however, the compressor needs only half the power, or
around 700 watts, to keep running.
Outlet #2
In the next outlet pair plug in the second extension cord and attach a power
strip/surge protector to the end inside the house. You can use the power strip to run
3, 4, or even 5 low wattage items at the same time as long as the combined wattage
doesn’t exceed 1,500 watts or 12 amps.
Here are some examples of essential low wattage devices you could plug into the
power strip simultaneously:
Light (40 -100 watts), laptop battery charger (70 watts), large fan (85 watts), cell
phone charger (4 watts), 46” LCD flat screen TV (180) watts, satellite dish (100
watts), Xbox (170), and clock radio (50 watts).
Outlet #3
Plug a third extension cord into the next set of outlets and use this to alternate
between a coffee maker, microwave, or hot plate, all of which consume 1,100 - 1,200
watts. (Another option for cooking is a Coleman two burner gas camping stove.)
Generator power management
Before we get to the fourth outlet, let's see how much unused capacity is left on the
generator. If we add up the watts for the fridge, all the appliances in Outlet 2, and the
microwave in Outlet 3, we get 2,350 run watts and 4,150 surge watts. The total run
watts still leaves us 750 watts shy of the generator's 3,100 watt continuous operating
capacity, but exceeds the surge watt capacity by 150 watts.
Not to worry; since the surge demand for an electric device lasts only a second or two,
it's highly unlikely that any two appliances will come on at exactly the same time. You
also have the option to stagger the load on the generator by unplugging or turning off
one or more appliances before you plug in a device with high surge demand like a
sump pump.
Outlet #4
With approximately 750 watts of run power left you could add a small window air
conditioner, or a 1/3 hp sump pump or well pump if they're not hard wired to your
home's circuitry. Due to the high surge demand of these devices you would definitely
have to stagger the use of other appliances.
You’ll need 3 or 4 extension cords to connect selected appliances to the generator.
The cords should be a minimum 16 gauge and no longer than necessary to run from
the generator to where ever they'll be needed. If an extension cord is too long the
resulting power drop may damage the generator and appliances. And, as a practical
matter, longer cords are more expensive.
Connecting your appliances to the generator
To prolong the life of your portable generator and attached devices, follow these steps
to add electrical load:
- Start the generator with no electrical load attached.
- Allow the engine to run for several minutes to stabilize.
- Plug in and turn on the first item. It is best to plug in the item with the largest
load first such as the refrigerator/freezer. - Allow the engine to stabilize.
- Repeat these steps for each individual item.
Outlet #1
In the first outlet we’ll plug in one of the extension cords and run it to the
refrigerator/freezer. Whenever a refrigerator's compressor starts up it draws around
12 amps equalling 1,400 watts so it’s the only appliance we’ll run off this outlet.
A few seconds after start up, however, the compressor needs only half the power, or
around 700 watts, to keep running.
Outlet #2
In the next outlet pair plug in the second extension cord and attach a power
strip/surge protector to the end inside the house. You can use the power strip to run
3, 4, or even 5 low wattage items at the same time as long as the combined wattage
doesn’t exceed 1,500 watts or 12 amps.
Here are some examples of essential low wattage devices you could plug into the
power strip simultaneously:
Light (40 -100 watts), laptop battery charger (70 watts), large fan (85 watts), cell
phone charger (4 watts), 46” LCD flat screen TV (180) watts, satellite dish (100
watts), Xbox (170), and clock radio (50 watts).
Outlet #3
Plug a third extension cord into the next set of outlets and use this to alternate
between a coffee maker, microwave, or hot plate, all of which consume 1,100 - 1,200
watts. (Another option for cooking is a Coleman two burner gas camping stove.)
Generator power management
Before we get to the fourth outlet, let's see how much unused capacity is left on the
generator. If we add up the watts for the fridge, all the appliances in Outlet 2, and the
microwave in Outlet 3, we get 2,350 run watts and 4,150 surge watts. The total run
watts still leaves us 750 watts shy of the generator's 3,100 watt continuous operating
capacity, but exceeds the surge watt capacity by 150 watts.
Not to worry; since the surge demand for an electric device lasts only a second or two,
it's highly unlikely that any two appliances will come on at exactly the same time. You
also have the option to stagger the load on the generator by unplugging or turning off
one or more appliances before you plug in a device with high surge demand like a
sump pump.
Outlet #4
With approximately 750 watts of run power left you could add a small window air
conditioner, or a 1/3 hp sump pump or well pump if they're not hard wired to your
home's circuitry. Due to the high surge demand of these devices you would definitely
have to stagger the use of other appliances.
| Click on image to enlarge. |
The picture on the left shows the output
panel of my 4,000 watt POWERHORSE gas
generator.
The panel has four sets of 20 amp/120 volt
outlets. Think of each pair as a wall outlet in
your home.
It is also equipped with one 120/240 volt, 30
amp locking receptacle for either large
appliances or pumps, or to connect directly
to a transfer switch. (More on that later).
panel of my 4,000 watt POWERHORSE gas
generator.
The panel has four sets of 20 amp/120 volt
outlets. Think of each pair as a wall outlet in
your home.
It is also equipped with one 120/240 volt, 30
amp locking receptacle for either large
appliances or pumps, or to connect directly
to a transfer switch. (More on that later).
|
More portable generator options
The 4,000 watt generator used in this example is the largest of what are considered
to be "small" portable generators. If this is more than you need or can afford you can
always get something like the All Power America 2,000 watt generator which could
power the fridge and some lights.
On the opposite end of the spectrum are mid-size (5,000 - 10,000 watts), and large
(10,000 - 30,000 watts) generators costing upwards of $800.
If you choose to go with a larger generator you should also install a manual transfer
switch. This circuit breaker panel for generators requires only one cord from the
generator and runs as many electric circuits in your home as the power of the
generator allows.
The 4,000 watt generator used in this example is the largest of what are considered
to be "small" portable generators. If this is more than you need or can afford you can
always get something like the All Power America 2,000 watt generator which could
power the fridge and some lights.
On the opposite end of the spectrum are mid-size (5,000 - 10,000 watts), and large
(10,000 - 30,000 watts) generators costing upwards of $800.
If you choose to go with a larger generator you should also install a manual transfer
switch. This circuit breaker panel for generators requires only one cord from the
generator and runs as many electric circuits in your home as the power of the
generator allows.
| ETQ 3500 Watt Propane Generator |