Radiant Under Floor Installation
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Plastic heat exchanger tubing is run within the floor joist
cavity. Heat emission plates are formed around the tube
and used to support the tubing and distribute heat into
the floor in an efficient manner.
Foil faced insulation is placed underneath the tubes and
fins to reflect heat upward.
cavity. Heat emission plates are formed around the tube
and used to support the tubing and distribute heat into
the floor in an efficient manner.
Foil faced insulation is placed underneath the tubes and
fins to reflect heat upward.
When tubing is placed beneath a joisted floor system, it is weaved between the joists
and supported by aluminum heat distribution plates.
Here are some of the "tricks of the trade" that will help the work go easier.
1. Run the tubing when the joists are as unobstructed as possible, before the other
trades do their work and before cross bridging is installed. Work from below whenever
possible. Push and pull at the same time. If you pull too hard on the pipe without
pushing, you will get a kink. Have someone feed the tubing to you. Work with the
tubing at room temperature. Tie a rope around the coil to keep it together.
2. Don't try to work with a length of tubing that is unnecessarily long. Anything longer
than 200 ft. will become more difficult as the tubing must pass through more holes. If
the work becomes too difficult because there are too many holes and joists, cut the
tubing and start again. Couple the tubing ends together later.
3. Tape the open end of the pipe to keep out sawdust and dirt.
4. Each tubing has a minimum bending diameter and if you try to make a sharper
bend, you are likely to get kinks. Smaller diameter tubes can make sharper turns but
they put out less heat and have higher costs. In general, work with the largest tube
you can.
5. The more workers, the easier the work will proceed. It is ideal to have one person
at each point where the tubing turns. For do it yourself projects, it is a good excuse
for a party.
6. Consider skipping every other joist space, and then, at the end of the building, turn
around and come back through the joists that you missed. The advantages are that
the turns will be wider and that there is no need to run a return pipe.
and supported by aluminum heat distribution plates.
Here are some of the "tricks of the trade" that will help the work go easier.
1. Run the tubing when the joists are as unobstructed as possible, before the other
trades do their work and before cross bridging is installed. Work from below whenever
possible. Push and pull at the same time. If you pull too hard on the pipe without
pushing, you will get a kink. Have someone feed the tubing to you. Work with the
tubing at room temperature. Tie a rope around the coil to keep it together.
2. Don't try to work with a length of tubing that is unnecessarily long. Anything longer
than 200 ft. will become more difficult as the tubing must pass through more holes. If
the work becomes too difficult because there are too many holes and joists, cut the
tubing and start again. Couple the tubing ends together later.
3. Tape the open end of the pipe to keep out sawdust and dirt.
4. Each tubing has a minimum bending diameter and if you try to make a sharper
bend, you are likely to get kinks. Smaller diameter tubes can make sharper turns but
they put out less heat and have higher costs. In general, work with the largest tube
you can.
5. The more workers, the easier the work will proceed. It is ideal to have one person
at each point where the tubing turns. For do it yourself projects, it is a good excuse
for a party.
6. Consider skipping every other joist space, and then, at the end of the building, turn
around and come back through the joists that you missed. The advantages are that
the turns will be wider and that there is no need to run a return pipe.
Alternative-Heating-Info.com